Winston Churchil : V is for victory, H is for homburgs.
A homburg is a stiff hat, usually made of fur felt, that is superficially very similar to the trilby or fedora, since both can have a crease from the front to the back of the crown, known as a "center dent". The homburg usually has no pinches, and has a brim with the edge sharply turned up all the way around.
It was popularized by Edward VII after he visited Bad Homburg in Hessen, Germany, and brought back a hat of this style.
Brief History on Edward VIII: If you are not familiar with this figure, read on, for his life contains one of the greatest love stories of our modern age.
King Edward VIII did something that monarchs do not have the luxury of doing - he fell in love. King Edward was in love with Mrs. Wallis Simpson, not only an American, but also a married woman already once divorced. Yet, in order to marry the woman he loved, King Edward was willing to give up the British throne - and he did.
To some, this was the love story of the century. To others, it was a scandal that threatened to weaken the monarchy. In reality, the story of King Edward VIII and Mrs. Wallis Simpson never fulfilled either of these notions. Instead, the story is about a prince who wanted to be like everyone else.
more info The duke of Windsor (formerly Edward VIII) and duchess of Windsor on their wedding day, June 3, 1937
King Edward VIII's 1934 Buick, which he rode to Downing Street to announce his abdication from the British throne.
In Britain, a black homburg became widely known in the 1930s as an "Anthony Eden" after the Government Minister of that name. It is believed by some that Eden's rapid rise through the political hierarachy owed as much to image as to substance.
Anthony Eden wearing his signature homburg.
The homburg is sometimes referred to as The Godfather, which tends to variate with a slightly wider brim which rolls upward on the sides the way a bowler hat would.
The Golden Gate Homburg (Godfather) 100% wool, made inUSA $54 villagehatshop.com
Above hat available in 7 colors at villagehatshop.com
The Homburg by Stacy Adams wool felt $55 menshats.com
Homburg Hat by Dobbs Velour Fur Felt, available in beige $105 hats.com
The Homburg (Godfather) - Light 100% wool, available in 4 light colors $54 villagehatshop.com
This is the most definitive article on 1950's men's fashion on the internet. It is part 4 of my article The History Of Men's Fashion. You may click on the links at the bottom of this post for my previous articles.
Most people of our modern era evoke images of the Fonz from Happy Days or the colorful cast of Grease when they think of men's fashion in the fifties, but this was not the customary dress for the majority of men in the post-war era. More accurately so, most men dressed more like Fonzie's less "hep"1sidekick Richie Cunningham.
Menswear in the 1950's took a less flaunting tone than the bright, bold colors of the 40's. Darker shades of blue, dark brown, and charcoal reemerged, and in 1953 the gray flannel suit began it's reign.The most descriptive term for men's fashion in the early 50's would be conservatism. 1 click here for fifties slangs terms
A Brief Look At Women's Fashion Before I continue with mens' fashions in the fifties, we must first explore let's first take a look at the women. The conservatism associated with men was not the case with women's fashion. The post-war boom of consumerism provided a sense of economic optimism. New gadgets proclaimed the future was here and liberated women from many arduous household chores. Homemaking, it seemed, was not so bad with the help of electric stoves, vacuum cleaners, refrigerators, and the like. Women could now concentrate on making a comfortable home for their families, and still have time to have a life outside of the kitchen. The apron 1 as well as the wartime dress (designed with utility and adequacy in mind) would be replaced with Dior's "New Look", that exploded into the fashion scene in 1947 out of Europe which would domintate women's fashion during this era with hourglass silhouettes. Christian Dior also defined a new business model in fashion by establishing a wide range of products internationally.2 1 click here for vintage aprons of the fifties 2 click here for an article on Women's Fashion Glamour of the 1950's
The Second World War left women craving for glamour, style and swathes of fabric where scraps of material had once existed. Dior's full skirted and waisted designs fulfilled all the early dreams of the feminine woman in the early 50's. As a new, more liberated society evolved, women moved toward freer more relaxed clothes and began the move away from the dress rules and associated formality of decades.
...Back To The Men
(left- vintage pink 50'swetsern shirt) Although the fifties could be described as a conservative era for men's fashion, there were slight deviations with certain forms of casual wear. In this decade men began to wear pink, they even adorned themselves in pink ties. Inspired by Hollywood movies and Davy Crockett legends, Western or "cowboy" shirts would share the spotlight with cardigan sweaters. Hawaiian shirts 1 which became famous in the 40's also made their mark in the post-war era. 1 click here for my post on the history of Hawaiian shirts
Robert Wagoner in a cardigan, 1950's
1950's vintage rayon hawaiian shirt on ebay.
vintage 50's Western shirt on ebay
1950's Youth
Teenagers played an enormous role in fashion like never before. Generation gaps emerged, which although today seems quite innocent compared to modern times, these new styles were viewed as rebellious and scorned. Films like 'Rebel Without A Cause' starring James Dean and 'The Wild One' with a young Marlon Brando influenced the fashion of youth.
The Ousiders (1983) - movie about 1950's misfit teens
Greasers & Teddy Boys Common items in a greaser's wardrobe included Sir Guy shirts, white or black T-shirts (often with the sleeves rolled up); Daddy-O style shirts; black, blue or khaki work jackets, black or brown tenchcoats, Levi denim jackets; leather leather motorcycle jackets; blue or black Levi's 501 or 505 jeans (with the cuffs turned up about four inches) along with Chuck Taylor's also referred to as All-Stars (sneakers) and chain wallets. Teddy Boys were the UK version of Greasers with slight deviations.
Ducktail hairstyle worn by many greasers, other notable hairstyles were the pompadour, the crew cut, sideburns and The Apache ( which didn't last long and never came back into style...thank God).The Apache is basically a reverse mohawk, imagine going to work like that!
Poodle skirts and saddle shoes were might have been two of the most defining styles of the 50's.
Many academic youth wore letter sweaters and cardigans during the fifties.
Sandals, ballet slippers, and other casual footwear was favored when pool parties and outdoor BBQ's gained in popularity.
Mass production, the introduction of synthetic fabrics and the comparative prosperity of the late fifties changed the world of fashion, teens demanded their own market during this era. Since the fifties, which Vogue called 'the formative years of the century', fashion has never really been the same. History Of Men's Fashion The 1950's The 1940's The 1930's The1920's More Fabulous Fifties Photos Below remember, you can click any photo in my post to enlarge it.
I know everyone here has heard of chinchilla fur coats, but in case your wondering what kind of animal it is, it's just about the cutest rodent I have ever seen (sorry Bugs). Now, I'm no fanatical animal right activist, my views are pretty much - yes to RATS, yes to SNAILS, absolutely NO to PUPPY DOG TAILS ! (I don't care what I'm made out of) Chinchilla Coat$9,999
But if you feel a need to keep your neck warm with a giant, furry turd, be my guest and click here for the ebay listing.
"Has anyone seen my mommy?"
...sorry cutie, but you might want to check my other ebay listings at the bottom of this post.
One further look into John Varvatos' Spring 2008 Collection will explain the designer's meteoric rise in the last 5 years. The esteemed designer, originally from Detroit, is revered for mingling contemorary American style and European savvy to his designs.
His designs are the embodiment of serene sophistication, in other words one could look classic and stylish, but at the same time not be perceived as trying hard to, as if being cool just came naturally... and that's what John Varvatos emphasizes in his creations.
Cheap Trick, documented by David Clinch at the Santa Monica Pier for the John Varvatos Spring 2008 Campaign as well as Alice Cooper and Iggy Pop ( huge fans of JV).
In 2007John Varvartos was named Designer Of The Year by GQ.
Varvatos has recently purchased the location that once housed CBGB, and would be opening a boutique there in the spring of 2008.
Never over-styled but always smart... I find near perfection in almost every piece in this collection, which is a favorite by so many men- especially those that seek a look that speaks indifferent attitude toward fashion but secretly yearn to have their style appreciated from afar.
Tony Gaziano and Dean Girling have a full schedule for the month of April here in the United States. Along with an introduction into their company and their craftsmanship ( for those of us less acquainted with their artistry ), I will also provide my fellow fashionistos and dandies with 3 reasons why I humbly proclaim April 2008: Gaziano Girling Appreciation Month.
Sinatra Black calf Leather
Reason #1 RTW available in NYC this April You'll be able to find their shoes in stock after the opening of the anticipated Leffot boutique in April 2008.
Leffot will be on 10 Christopher St. in the West Village (NYC), at the former Geppetto's Toy Box. >>>>>>> (sorry kids, but Daddy needs a new pair of G&Gs)
I for one, shall embrace the moment when their shoes will be within a stone's throw. (Perhaps, a large stone, along with a big duffel bag and a get-away car.) Their show room is on Saville Row, so before this developement, their stock could only be found in England, France, Germany and Japan retailers. A yankee would patiently have to wait for a stateside exhinition... which would bring me to my next reason.
Westbury Vintage Oak
Reason #2 Tony & Dean Spring Fever Tony Gaziano and Dean Girling will be exhibiting in San Franciso, Los Angeles, DC, and New York throughout the month of April. You could make an appoint- ment to partake in his latest creations. Click the website link lower down in the post for further info.
Astaire Suede & Pin Grain
If you haven't already, it might be time you go bespoke in terms of footwear. Your suit is custom for only you, now begin to shift your gaze downward.
Windsor Vintage Cedar
If there is any part of the body we regularly clothe that demands a proper fit, it's your feet. Next time your out, pay attention to how many people you come across that look at your feet compared to your own eyes.
Cannes Brown Highland Grain
A custom fit along, your style selection as well as the skin of choice not only provides comfort but it demands respect.
Corniche Rosewood Calf
You can expect to pay about $1000-$1300 for Stock and Made-To-Order shoes.
The price range for Bespoke shoes and boots is about $3,000 - $5000, and about $1500 more for alligator skin.
The CFDA has announced it's nominees for it's annual fashion award ceremony. (The CFDA is the mafia of American fashion designers, 300 + fashionisto capos, marching in unison (in the most beautiful boots you've ever seen)"to raise its artistic and professional standards; to define a code of ethical practices of mutual benefit in public and trade relations; and, to promote appreciation of the fashion arts through leadership in quality and aesthetic discernment." ... a tear runs down my Armani suit every time I read that message. It makes me want to save an African baby seal from deforestation. Here are the men's categories and nominations.
I thought I would share with you a little history of this fashion house. Founded in 1836 by ThierryHermès as a saddlery company, the business has remained mostly in the control of the Hermès family for almost two hundred years. Today, the house of Hermès produces ready-to-wear fashion, home decor, jewelry, luggage , and fragrances as well as saddles.
One of Hermès' most recognized products is the silkscarf. The first silk scarf square in the Hermès collection was produced in 1928, and in 1937 a dedicated scarf factory was established in Lyon. The modern Hermès scarf measures 90cm square, weighs 65 grams and is woven from the silk of 250 mulberry moth cocoons. The per-pound cost of a scarf today is approximately $1,965.00 (compared to a pound of steel at $0.19)
Robert Dumas, the husband of one of Emile's four daughters, introduced Hermès ties, fragrances, and beach towels. His son, Jean-Louis.
The fedora is a soft felt hat that is creased lengthwise down the crown and pinched in the front on both sides. Similar hats with a C-crown (an indentation for the head in the top of the crown) are occasionally called fedoras.
Since the early twentieth century fedoras were considered an essential part of the suit and of business and formal attire. Most men did not go outside without wearing one.
In Hollywood of the 1940s, characters often wore a fedora, particularly when playing private detectives, gangsters, or other "tough guy" roles. The fedora is closely associated with many Hollywood characters.
Variations
In the U.K. a fedora is also called a trilby. They typically have a shorter brim and the back of the brim is distinctively more sharply upturned as a result.
Seriously guys, your all too old to be playing dress-up, put your mommies' coats back in the closet. Fur looks ridiculous on men, add a free promo cap given to you at an Auto Show and some sunglasses and you look like Bruce Willis being eaten by a giant vagina.
Men with fur coats should have their own forum where they can exchange grooming tips and share photos of their pinkie rings and Eastern European coke whores.
Great, another one... "Oye, hermano, this fur coat has lasted me through 3 turf wars!"
"This is 100% Mexican chinchilla!"
"Look! No bullet holes in the back, ese!"
If you might be even slightly interested in this coat, when your done removing the balloons full of heroin out of your cousins butt, take a look at the ebay listing here
Oh, dear God, this is classic...click the photo for a better look, especially the bottom of the photo. ... sandals! You got to be kidding me! click here if you want to look like a f*cking Tickle Me Elmo doll...
The trilby hat (or simply trilby) is traditionally a soft felt men's hat with a narrow brim and a deeply indented crown, origibally made from rabbit hair felt, it is now made by many materials.
Trilbies are softer than Homburgs, and have a flexible brim instead of a curved one. They are like Fedoras in many ways, but with a narrower brim. The hat's name derives from a play based on George du Maurier's 1894 novel Trilby. A hat of this style was worn on stage during the play's first London production. The trilby has been a symbol of chic elegance and class, and has been associated with jazz, ska and soul music.
British journalist William Norman Ewer had the nickname Trilby because he was known to wear the hat. The trilby was also often worn by Inspector Clouseau, the character portrayed by Peter Sellers in the Pink Panther film series. According to Sellers, he already owned a trenchcoat when he created the character, and he bought Clouseau's trilby from a shop in London because he thought the hat just naturally completed the outfit.
Below are an assortment of trilby hats available online.
Hessian Trilby by Paul Smith cotton & nylon, made in Italy, available inbrown $225 paulsmith.com
Woven Straw Trilby Hat by Paul Smith woven straw, available in sky blue, made in Italy $100 paulsmith.com
I'm not going to testify that I've never shopped for apparel through ebay, last I remember I put in a winning bid for a vintage bicycle jersey and the seller in Italy grew anxious. I give him points for dedication, he did constantly try to remind me through e-mail, I just got bored of it all. Where the hell am I going to wear a vintage bicycle jersey from Italy? -Now my Italian is horrendous, so in his last email he either told me to go f--k myself or he said something about fuzzy donuts that smell very chicken
... yeah...I think he told me to go f--k myself. I digress... I present you items I've found recently on ebay, hold on to your mammalian hats:
Louis Vuitton Mink Fur Cap So you can keep your melon warm, and look good during your next conquest into Eastern Anatolia. $2,300 click to see it on Ebay, Genghis
Fennix Custom Made Alligator Jacket Where the hell are you going to wear this? A soft opening for a boutique restaurant in the JUNGLE? You might impress the hippos, but as much as I tolerate other people's fashion choices, I might LOL at the sight of you slithering down 2nd. Ave. All you need is a pair of Chanel sunglasses and you'll look like a Sleestak.[...crickets chirping]... guys don't tell me I'm the only one that remembers The Land Of The Lost.
Zilli Black Russian Squirrel Fur Jacket $4,000 The description from the seller writes: 100% Black Russian Squirrel fur lining - super rare fur, not found in North America...
super rare---as opposed to those legions of pesky Cosmopolitan Cocktail Squirrels you find at every girl's night out.
How's that, huh? Make you feel warm and toasty? Thank God the fur lining is at least removable.
If I'm going squirrel, at least I'd hope for something stylish. Then, maybe, those cold lonely nights in Central Park with a net in one hand and a bag of peanuts in the other would justify the frostbite and gang rapes.
Versace Tiger Print Pony Fur Coat $3,995 They're Gr-r-r-r-r-reat! Is it a tiger, is it a pony?... maybe it's a phony! Would you really want to find out? If so click here for the ebay listing.
Gorigo Armini Trench Coat ...wait, did you say Gorigo Armini?
..."This is a 100% authentic Gorigo Armani full length coat size XXL in black. This coat is a couple of years old and very lightly worn. and in excellent condition"
Either your a Fendi person, or your not. I find the same philosophy holds with women...
I, myself am not. Don't get me wrong, I can not dispute the excellent work Fendi does with fabric - for instance this collection promotes use of light, layered fabrics, and it functions beautifully.
Bring me my credit card, I want to sponsor this poor child. ... I don't know where Fendi got the inspiration for this one, this would be a perfect vest for a North African Pinnochio .
This is all the rage in Sherwood Forest. Beige is the new green, they say.
I love this look, the sheer tops over a shirt and tie gets my vote as Best fresh new look of Spring 2008, nice work Fendi, this alone makes me reconsider my original opinion on the entire line.
It's still raining here in the Big Apple, and as I look over weather.com it seems many other cities share our misfortune. Why does it always seem to rain on the weekends? Check out this raincoat and suggested accessories so you can stay dry and fly this early spring season.
Josef Seibel Rick Boot $160 at Nordstrom Patented water-resistant treatment repels the elements on a lace-up leather boot, hand stitched for maximum durability. (click for details)
I was caught out in the rain today, with a friend's Chinatown-special umbrella and a pair of Nike cross-trainers. I wished I had left the house with different attire, if I could do it all over again, this is what I would choose.
I'm going to start from the bottom up, and practicality takes precedence over style. My feet took an aquatic beating, the Nikes I had on my feet are perfect for running, but were not designed with wet conditions in mind (as they loudly testify themselves at this very moment,clunking and banging away in the drying machine). I opt for the Matterhorn boots, which are heavy-duty industrial strength, military approved boots. Undecided between a few styles, I have selected my favorites.
Ugly you say? Perhaps, but in a Sarah Jessica Parker/Mick Jagger kind of ugly/sexy way. Hey, my feet will be toasty and dry. A second choice might be the Matterhorn Laether Tankers Boots offerered for $112.
a few other boots I found at the Matterhorn website caught my eye: (I warn you, I'm feeling very conbative today after my tropical survival mission in the concrete jungle with no cabs in site)
Although it was typhoon-like condition in NYC today, the weather wasn't at freezing level, and apart from a rain coat, the next most suitable thing might be a wool trench coat, I would rather slosh around with something shorter, and nothing dull or dreary like most "rainy day" attire worn by the masses, the next item on my "caught in the rain" wish-list is the Rock & Republic's Thornally Jacket. This 100% Leather jacket will turn a rain event into a fashion affair. $680
Oh, but I'm not nearly done yet, we still need to go over the details, as you know, it's all about the details. Let's talk gloves, winter gloves would be unnecessary and too bulky for this outfit, being that the weather was not arctic, these Dunhill driving gloves are perfect, although I could not find them in their current collection at the Dunhill Website. They cost around $200-$250, should you be able to locate them. I have to be honest and say that I would even consider some red leather gloves, driving gloves or classic, perhaps cashmere lining. The reason why I want red, other than it's my look and I can do what I want is my last piece de resistance is the Ferrari umbrella.
I usually despise umbrellas, mainly because of people who are quick to open their patio table-esque umbrellas that contain 2 zipcodes whenever a little bit of humidity makes it's presence. Take a walk through Chinatown during the next rain and you'll see what I mean. Also I'm not an umbrella person, I always forget them in cabs or the apartments of less than virtuous women, and almost never get them back. Yet a gentleman needs a good umbrella. The made in china kind that find their ways onto the makeshift temporary tables of street vendor/rain entrepreneurs are of really bad quality, and what do you expect, that umbrella you paid $5 for was bought in a lot of 100 for $50. So, your 50 cent (not the rapper) umbrella is worth just that. What is the use of a Bottega Veneta coat when you look silly fighting with an inside out umbrella in the middle of Park Ave. Get a good umbrella soon, remember, it comes in like a lion . Ferrari Umbrella $160
throw on a pair of designer black jeans and I'm done!
You proclaim how fond and acquainted you are in vintage clothing, well check out this website that sells vintage underwear. From grandpa's ol' boxers to your dear innocent grannies hoochie mama couture. So are you vintage down to your bare ass?
Although I've mainly been focusing on showing runway photos ofSpring 2008 collections, I wanted to bring out the more recent Fall 2008 show, since I praised the Spring 2008 Emanuel Ungaro Collection so much in my previous posts. You might find however, I differ in opinion here, occasionally.
Do men still insist on wearing fur or fur paux? It makes you look too Detroit pimp-ish. Even if your a gangster from Moscow, the stone ages are over - lose the fur and the Abba collection (no, they're not cool).
I think Emanuel Ungaro took to many liberties with their design this Fall. Exhibit A
[starting to yawn]
[yawn]
[waking up]
[I'm up!] This is my favorite look here. Every piece is impeccable, this outfit alone is stunning enough to make me visit the local shop, if not the website below. Gorgeous, head to toe.
Just when he thought he made it out of Bed,Bath & Beyond without a glitch, his designer jacket burst open, revealing the cleptomaniacs stolen bounty.
Just get rid of that silly belt and we're cool... by the way, nice shoes.
This is so sad, Liberace's illegitimate son refuses to take off the the suit his dad bought him for his Bar Mitvfah the day before the entertainer died. Dear Eli, we've all lost, but we must go on... nice shoes, by the way.
sweater: [yawn] pants: [slight eyebrow raise]
I wish I could get a better look at this outfit without the man-shawl, seriously though, it hides what might be a great look and you can't be comfortable walking outside with that when the slightest breeze is present. It looks sharp (in it's Count Dracula way), but a bit costume.
This model looks like his head is popping out of a decrepit baboon's ass. Should you decide to buy this coat make sure you include the oversized tote bag, that way when your common sense returns you could immediately take the horse blanket off and put it away. Then kindly take the double-buckled belt and kindly hang yourself.
Dress like an Italian and fight like a Thailand thug... believe me, that's about all the advice you need to last you the rest of your life. This clip is from the Mixed Martial Arts episode of the famous Human Weapon series on The History Channel.
Ever since my latest contribution (The 1940's)to the 10 part article History Of Men's Fashion, I have been extremely interested in vintage Aloha shirts, which made their stateside appearance in the 40's - about a decade after their birth in Hawaii. I've found some fantastic information regarding the history of the Hawaiian shirt as well as some great vintage finds on the internet which I'd love to share with you all. click here for Men's Fashion - 1940's The cover of Life Magazine, dated December 10, 1951, featured a beaming President Harry Truman wearing a Hawaiian shirt for a story entitled “The President of the United States - Evolution of a Wardrobe.” Truman wore Aloha shirts, as they came to be known, regularly while in office and in retirement. The Aloha shirt gained popularity after World War II, reaching a peak in the 1950’s and 60’s, as jet travel and statehood brought Hawaii onto the national spotlight. (A more detailed history with vintage shirts for sale below.)
The Ever Popular Palaka In the late 19th and early 20th centuries, the Hawaiian Islands emerged as a powerful plantation economy that produced sugar, pineapple and coffee for export around the world. Plantation workers needed a rugged shirt that was suitable for hard labor in the fields. Within a generation, the checkered blue and white denim palaka became the standard work shirt of Hawaii. By the early 1930s the palaka Hawaiian shirts and blue denim trousers called sailor mokus had almost become the official national costume of Hawaii both on and off the plantation.
From Kimono to Ono In the early days shirts were tailored by hand, either in the home or at custom tailor shops that had sprung up in plantation towns and throughout Honolulu. Dry goods stores supplied the fabrics: printed silk from Japan, raw silk, batik, rayon from the U.S. mainland and cotton cloth made for kimonos and yukatas. Short- and long-sleeved shirts and women's dresses were based on Asian garment designs and made from pre-printed fabrics from China and Japan. These colorful shirts and dresses were the direct ancestors of modern aloha wear. Here in the islands we say "ono" to mean deliciously cool.
First Real Kine Hawaiian Designs It wasn't until the mid-1930s that Hawaiian clothing manufacturers decided to produce cloth that was uniquely Hawaiian in design. Watumull's East India Store led the way by commissioning artist Elsie Das to create fifteen floral designs. Her hand-painted designs were sent to Japan where they were printed by hand onto raw silk.
Satin Mistakes and Hollywood Dreams According to Hawaiian fabric designer Elsie Das, a Japanese manufacturer once printed a set of her floral designs on heavy satin… by mistake. "These started a vogue in Hollywood. Ginger Rogers, Janet Gaynor and other stars bought bolts of the stuff and had it made into 'seductive gowns.' The result was an epidemic of Hawaiian designs, with hibiscus and ginger breaking out on table cloths, napkins and scarves all over the country." "Elsie Das, Artist Designer," an article by William Davenport in Paradise of the Pacific, p 9, 1963.
The "First" Aloha Shirt The term "aloha shirt" may have started as street slang in the early 1930s to describe the growing number of shirts featuring Oriental and Hawaiian designs that were being produced by Honolulu tailors. Musa-Shiya, the Shirtmaker first advertised the "aloha shirt" in the Honolulu Advertiser on June 28, 1935: "Honolulu's Noted Shirt Maker and Kimono Shop. 'Aloha' shirts - well tailored, beautiful designs and radiant colors. Ready-made or made to order…95 cents up." By another account, an advertising salesperson from the Honolulu Advertiser and Ellery Chun, the owner of the King-Smith dry goods store, first coined the term "aloha shirt." In fact Mr. Chun officially registered a trademark for his Aloha sportswear on July 15, 1936.
Aloha from Hollywood Movie stars, crooners and politicians did a fine job of promoting Hawaiian clothing. Montgomery Cliff, Burt Lancaster, Ernest Borgnine and Frank Sinatra all wore beautiful Hawaiian shirts in the movie From Here to Eternity. Ginger Rogers wore seductive satin gowns of Hawaiian designs while Bing Crosby sported his unique combination of Hawaiian shirt and porkpie hat. And Betty Grable did a promo pin-up shot wearing a gorgeous Hawaiian-style swimsuit in the 1940s. In the 1980s, Tom Selleck often wore the signature "Magnum PI" Hawaiian shirt, which is now in the Smithsonian Institute.
Border Hawaiian Shirts By modern standards, border Hawaiian shirts were a luxury because so much fabric was wasted in making them. These shirts featured wonderful designs that were so well thought-out that sleeves, sides and hems were identical. Pockets sometimes matched the shirt pattern perfectly. And some designs never repeated themselves on the same shirt. Border Hawaiian shirts tended to be longer to show off the fabric images (you never, EVER tuck in a border shirt). The same tailoring approach was used to create beautiful sun dresses. The border shirt is very similar to the Engineered print Hawaiian shirt. The only difference is that the engineered shirts' image are even wider than the border shirt, often stretching from seam to seam.
Muumuus and Tea-timers The Hawaiian muumuu started out as a loose-fitting dress designed for women of all sizes. It was the result of missionaries who sought to cover the bodies of Hawaiian women, who traditionally wore nothing more than a skirt. As the muumuu morphed and mated with traditional Asian designs, a unique series of women's garments emerged. For informal entertaining, the pake muu featured long, wing-like sleeves based on a Chinese design. The popular tea-timer was a tight-fitting, tailored, sleeveless top with a short mandarin collar. The holomu was a fitted garment for more formal evening wear while the holoku was a full-length dress for formal affairs. Over the years, women's Hawaiian clothing has tended to feature floral designs: ginger blossoms, plumeria, hibiscus, orchids and birds-of-paradise.
Casual Day Finds Its Roots in Honolulu In 1947 the Honolulu Board of Supervisors passed a resolution whereby City & County employees were allowed - actually, they were encouraged - to wear Hawaiian shirts from June 1 to October 31 each year to beat the summer heat. This single act by a local government has had a powerful influence on businesses and civil servant departments around the world, especially where summers are unbearably hot. Today, many corners of the globe adopt more casual clothing styles for hot weather.
Aloha Friday In Hawaii every Friday is Aloha Friday. It's the day when you wear your favorite aloha dress or aloha shirt with pride. On each and every Friday, downtown Honolulu is a sea of aloha wear, especially at lunch time when you can usually catch a free concert in the plaza at the corner of King and Bishop streets. Hawaii's aloha spirit can be found in many business offices. Companies that offer a "casual" day on Fridays need only look to the Aloha State for the source of this wonderful tradition.
Now for those of you who enjoy vintage Hawaiian but don't see yourself shelling out thoudands or even hundreds of dollars for one, here are a few more affordable finds.
Gracyanne Barbosa is a celebrity in brazil, a country where your sexuality along with tantilizing dance moves is an anecdote for nationwide fame. And because of the accessibilty of her photos and videos on the internet, she is now an internet phenom, with views in the millions of her dancing at various events ( concerts, carnivals etc.) I've included Youtube approved videos of her web clips, keep in mind that Brazil is a country that does not have the sexual hang ups alot of Americans do, so if a little booty shakin' ( in clothes) or the thin line between nudity and carnival body paint offend you, my sincerest apologies. I myself don't offend easily, and for the gentleman who I've let down by photoshop-ing over the sexy parts, I am sorry for that, but e-blogger rules.
I don't have much on the personal life of Gracyanne, but I did find something in the Portuguese Wikipedia. I guess the photos will just have to do for now, hope you dont mind, [Borat voice] - and click the photos for premium enjoyment.
I'm guessing many of my less polished readers might not be familiar with Emanuel Ungaro. I implore you to get more acquainted with this designer, who although stepped down in 2001 as principal designer (Vincent Darre wears the designer captain's hat at EU), the founder still has creative guidance in their collections. The look is Euro-chic, sharp classy tailored suits are the norm.
The collection can be adorned by the modern executive as well as shameless fashionistos who appreciate the slight and tasteful deviations from the classic European tailored look.
And although I was not a big fan of the recent Fall 2008 Collection, this one is one of my favorites from Spring/Summer 2008. It may not have the versatility of Dsquared, with it's sharp suits sharing the runway with elegant sportswear, nor the flamboyance of Gucci or Armani, Emanuel Ungaro is a favorite of many men who appreciate the established gentleman's look with a modern edge design.
Some of my favorite jackets of the entire Spring can all be found within this collection.
Italian born, French raised and the eye of a Savile Row tailor, Emanuel Ungaro has fascinated many this last Spring, I encourage you to discover more. ungaro.com
Porsche decided to expand mid-engine coupe model range and from November 2008 a new, limited edition Cayman S will be launched. The 2008 Porsche Design Edition 1 Cayman S will have a 3.4 liter boxer-6 engine delivering 295 hp at 6250 rpm. The 2008 Porsche Design Edition 1 Cayman S will accelerate from 0 to 60 mph in 4.7 seconds and will have a top speed of 169 mph. With this 777-car limited edition, Porsche has worked to incorporate the PorscheDesign look into a Cayman S. The gauge cluster takes on the appearance of a Porsche Design chrono, and the entire car is finished in black inside and out.MSRP $78,000
Before I get further into the Iceberg Collection, I want to point out the importance of accessorizing(not an actual word). Alot of men need to go through accessory boot camp before they max out their credit cards on luxe menswear. Without the red belt, the upper portion of this model's look would have been too domineering because of the bold, sharp contrasting collar. Red shoes would have been overdoing it, giving replacing harmony with a rehearsed and constricted look. ACCESORIZE bitches!
One more point to ponder, if you must wear your sunglasses anywhere on your body apart from your face, don't hang them on a high collar, the photo to the left is fine, if it were on a t-shirt, or an unopened shirt it looks like your wearing a glass bow tie that needs to be adjusted, plus it gives you the appearance of having a small, Beetlejuice head. Keep it on the down low.
This is my favorite look here, but don't wear a shirt underneath a jacket like this if the collars are slightly worn or have lost firmness. Consider starching the cotton shirt so it lays over your jacket collar firmly.
This is just wrong, honestly where do I begin? The model that went before him doesn't look to appealing from the back either. Invest in full length mirrors guys. Listen, ties are an awkward fashion, probably one of the most awkward, yet highly accepted and appreciated fashions in menswear. When you think of it, what is their purpose? One would need to read about the history of the cravat to understand how we have went about accepting this idea, yet ties will always complete specific outfits or looks. This squared tie with the tongue hanging lower brings attention to how eccentric ties really are, and a tie should never ever do that, they should be unobtrusive (most of the time) yet harmonize a look. I am not so non-conforming as to say you should never wear a tie with a shirt like this, the model below looks sharp as a Ginsu, it's just this look (to the right) is horribly coordinated, and I don't mean it's disheveled look. To put it in one word for lack of blog space --- blah. --Be careful with hues.
If Iceberg had a website that was easy to navigate, yet alone find, I would have provided a link. I am really starting to get angry at distinguished labels with inferior websites If your lucky enough to find the site, see if you can navigate your way in, I gave up. I don't have many qualms with this collection though, I just wish the label would find a someone in Asia to create a decent website and provide online marketing skills, what the hell do we have child labor overseas for? Utilize it!
James Dean, wearing a vests when vests weren't "cool". This photo is from the movie Giant, which would be his last motion picture. James Dean was too cool to grow old, died in a car crash in 1955 driving a Porsche 550 Spyder... he even died cool.
On Yahoo Front Page today was an article about British marine experts who have found what they claim is a world first -- a six-legged octopus (or would the correct term be "hexapus"?).
The unique sea creature, which has two limbs fewer than a normal octopus, is believed to be the result of a birth defect rather than an accident.
That's got to be hard, from birth your punished to a financially consuming life of bespoke, everything has to be tailored, everything. All the great ready-to-wear is designed for your eight legged brothers, and if that's not bad enough, imagine the amount of money you'll spend on shoes! Being this hexapus, whom the scientist named Henry, is going to be extremely difficult these next few months, especially with all this new found fame. So I compiled a list of 6 shoes for Henry to consider wearing this Spring/Summer.
First of all, it has to be 6 different shoes, not 3 pairs of the same. I wouldn't want to walk around looking like a male chorus line, and neither should Henry.
I'd start with Allen Edmonds' Westwood, from the casual collection. It's impressive stylish design at the top as well as it's durability and traction on the bottom make this a must especially for those who travel by foot (or tentacles) often. It's available in 2 other styles. $ 325
While I'm still going through Allen Edmonds' footwear, I'd get my tentacles to snatch up a pair of Evans. Yes, it's casualwear, it may even be called a sneaker, but it's sooo elegant. $ 250
“A pointed court shoe that cuts people down like a rapier-sharp epigram you wished you’d thought of first. A shoe with underworld overtones, I wanted it to be like skin, gashed and scarred, with body piercings and tattoos. A shoe that has seen life and is not afraid to wear its scars with pride” – Olga Berluti, January 2003
Piercing collection Berluti $ 1500
Harry Berluti (Piercing collection) $ 1500
You might have guessed by now, I'm priming our new species into having Berluti addiction, which is more financially straining than heroin, but just as addictive.
Last Christmas, a lot of of were too busy to remember that it would be exactly a year to that day when James Brown died. He made his mark in music and some of his greatest hits were against his previous wives and girlfriends. James Brown, the good and the bad, heres my tribute to you, The Godfather. I begin with a wonderful performance in Italy in 2002, putting 2 great music legends on stage together, if you haven't seen this yet, I think you should watch.
Good times... now here are some bad ones...
The following video is a less admired, and probably more intoxicated appearance by The Godfather...a news interview with him after he was released on bond for assault charges on wifey along with shooting up "that crazy bitch's" car. This video is hysterical, it starts off a bit slow, the reporter needs to do the intro, but then James goes LIVE!!!
... but his worst moment was the time the flash clicked on this county-owned camera to take one of the worst/best celebrity mugshot photos in history. Hey, there have been WORSE mugshots... Khalid-Sheikh Mohammed, known in his terrorist circles as "General Chia Pet"... that's a rough one, habibi.
Nick Nolte... the fashion police had every right, I'd rather be caught in James Brown'sWal-Mart robe, or even the Sheikh's natural fur before this, wow. Damn Nick, you look like an old Chinese-crested popping it's head out of a tropical bush after being rudely awakened by the LAPD.
That smile on your face tells me your causing a ruckus up in heaven, Mr. Brown. Thanks for the memories, the feet tapping, pelvic swinging ones as well as the knee slapping, audibly laughing ones.
Rest In Peace James Brown Born May 3.1928, 1933 or 1934 Died December 25, 2006 ... I'll remember you every Christmas from now on.
Viva La Revolucion!infidels &crackers!!! In what is one of the most talked about runway presentations from the Spring 2008 Collections, John Galliano brings you Arab sheik gun smugglers and neo-cyber thugs in an explosive fusion with taffetta coats, military trench jackets and designer suits that would stir envy in the hardest revolutionary. Here are a few photos of the extensive collection.
Winston Churchil : V is for victory, H is for homburgs.
The duke of Windsor (formerly Edward VIII) and duchess of Windsor on their wedding day, June 3, 1937
In Britain, a black homburg became widely known in the 1930s as an "Anthony Eden" after the Government Minister of that name. It is believed by some that Eden's rapid rise through the political hierarachy owed as much to image as to substance.
