Monday, March 24, 2008

History & Definition Of Men's Hats - The Homburg

Winston Churchil : V is for victory, H is for homburgs.


A homburg is a stiff hat, usually made of fur felt, that is superficially very similar to the trilby or fedora, since both can have a crease from the front to the back of the crown, known as a "center dent". The homburg usually has no pinches, and has a brim with the edge sharply turned up all the way around.

It was popularized by Edward VII after he visited Bad Homburg in Hessen, Germany, and brought back a hat of this style.

Brief History on Edward VIII: If you are not familiar with this figure, read on, for his life contains one of the greatest love stories of our modern age.

King Edward VIII did something that monarchs do not have the luxury of doing - he fell in love. King Edward was in love with Mrs. Wallis Simpson, not only an American, but also a married woman already once divorced. Yet, in order to marry the woman he loved, King Edward was willing to give up the British throne - and he did.

To some, this was the love story of the century. To others, it was a scandal that threatened to weaken the monarchy. In reality, the story of King Edward VIII and Mrs. Wallis Simpson never fulfilled either of these notions. Instead, the story is about a prince who wanted to be like everyone else.

more info
The duke of Windsor (formerly Edward VIII) and duchess of Windsor on their wedding day, June 3, 1937

King Edward VIII's 1934 Buick, which he rode to Downing Street to announce his abdication from the British throne.







In Britain, a black homburg became widely known in the 1930s as an "Anthony Eden" after the Government Minister of that name. It is believed by some that Eden's rapid rise through the political hierarachy owed as much to image as to substance.


Anthony Eden wearing his signature homburg.

The homburg is sometimes referred to as The Godfather, which tends to variate with a slightly wider brim which rolls upward on the sides the way a bowler hat would.







The Golden Gate Homburg (Godfather)
100% wool, made inUSA
$54
villagehatshop.com





Above hat available in 7 colors at villagehatshop.com











The Homburg by Stacy Adams
wool felt
$55
menshats.com











Homburg Hat by Dobbs
Velour Fur Felt, available in beige
$105
hats.com









The Homburg (Godfather) - Light
100% wool, available in 4 light colors
$54
villagehatshop.com






Forenza Silk Fur Felt Homburg by Dobbs
Silk Fur Felt, Satin Lining
$169
dadshats.com






Edaward VII's abdication speech

History & Definition Of Men's Hats - The Fedora The Trilby

History Of Men's Fashion
The 1950's
The 1940's
The 1930's
The1920's




Sunday, March 16, 2008

History Of Men's Fashion - The 1950's

1950 Cadillac Fleetwood






This is the most definitive article on 1950's men's fashion on the internet. It is part 4 of my article The History Of Men's Fashion.
You may click on the links at the bottom of this post for my previous articles.











Most people of our modern era evoke images of the Fonz from Happy Days or the colorful cast of Grease when they think of men's fashion in the fifties, but this was not the customary dress for the majority of men in the post-war era. More accurately so, most men dressed more like Fonzie's less "hep" 1 sidekick Richie Cunningham.


Menswear in the 1950's took a less flaunting tone than the bright, bold colors of the 40's. Darker shades of blue, dark brown, and charcoal reemerged, and in 1953 the gray flannel suit began it's reign.The most descriptive term for men's fashion in the early 50's would be conservatism.
1 click here for fifties slangs terms



Men wore hats everywhere, to work as well as social occasions, throughout much of the fifties.
click here for my post on History & Definition of Men's Hats








A Brief Look At Women's Fashion
Before I continue with mens' fashions in the fifties, we must first explore let's first take a look at the women.
The conservatism associated with men was not the case with women's fashion. The post-war boom of consumerism provided a sense of economic optimism. New gadgets proclaimed the future was here and liberated women from many arduous household chores. Homemaking, it seemed, was not so bad with the help of electric stoves, vacuum cleaners, refrigerators, and the like. Women could now concentrate on making a comfortable home for their families, and still have time to have a life outside of the kitchen. The apron 1 as well as the wartime dress (designed with utility and adequacy in mind) would be replaced with Dior's "New Look", that exploded into the fashion scene in 1947 out of Europe which would domintate women's fashion during this era with hourglass silhouettes. Christian Dior also defined a new business model in fashion by establishing a wide range of products internationally.2
1 click here for vintage aprons of the fifties
2
click here for an article on Women's Fashion Glamour of the 1950's


The Second World War left women craving for glamour, style and swathes of fabric where scraps of material had once existed. Dior's full skirted and waisted designs fulfilled all the early dreams of the feminine woman in the early 50's. As a new, more liberated society evolved, women moved toward freer more relaxed clothes and began the move away from the dress rules and associated formality of decades.





...Back To The Men

(left- vintage pink 50'swetsern shirt)
Although the fifties could be described as a conservative era for men's fashion, there were slight deviations with certain forms of casual wear. In this decade men began to wear pink, they even adorned themselves in pink ties. Inspired by Hollywood movies and Davy Crockett legends, Western or "cowboy" shirts would share the spotlight with cardigan sweaters. Hawaiian shirts 1 which became famous in the 40's also made their mark in the post-war era.
1 click here for my post on the history of Hawaiian shirts


Robert Wagoner in a cardigan, 1950's





1950's vintage rayon hawaiian shirt on ebay.





vintage 50's Western shirt on ebay





1950's Youth



Teenagers played an enormous role in fashion like never before. Generation gaps emerged, which although today seems quite innocent compared to modern times, these new styles were viewed as rebellious and scorned. Films like 'Rebel Without A Cause' starring James Dean and 'The Wild One' with a young Marlon Brando influenced the fashion of youth.

click here for Rebel Without A Cause trailer



The Ousiders (1983) - movie about 1950's misfit teens

Greasers & Teddy Boys
Common items in a greaser's wardrobe included Sir Guy shirts, white or black T-shirts (often with the sleeves rolled up); Daddy-O style shirts; black, blue or khaki work jackets, black or brown tenchcoats, Levi denim jackets; leather leather motorcycle jackets; blue or black Levi's 501 or 505 jeans (with the cuffs turned up about four inches) along with Chuck Taylor's also referred to as All-Stars (sneakers) and chain wallets. Teddy Boys were the UK version of Greasers with slight deviations.


Ducktail hairstyle worn by many greasers, other notable hairstyles were the pompadour, the crew cut, sideburns and The Apache ( which didn't last long and never came back into style...thank God).The Apache is basically a reverse mohawk, imagine going to work like that!



Daddy-O style shirts (right)











The Beatnik 1 was also in vogue.







1 click here for Mike Myers performing a beat poem in 'I Married an Axe Murderer' (1993)



Poodle skirts and saddle shoes were might have been two of the most defining styles of the 50's.
























Many academic youth wore letter sweaters and cardigans during the fifties.















Sandals, ballet slippers, and other casual footwear was favored when pool parties and outdoor BBQ's gained in popularity.

Mass production, the introduction of synthetic fabrics and the comparative prosperity of the late fifties changed the world of fashion, teens demanded their own market during this era.
Since the fifties, which Vogue called 'the formative years of the century', fashion has never really been the same.

History Of Men's Fashion
The 1950's
The 1940's
The 1930's
The1920's


More Fabulous Fifties Photos Below
remember, you can click any photo in my post to enlarge it.

History & Definition Of Men's Hats - The Fedora The Trilby

A wonderfully edited video of the Spiegel Collection 1950

A great video on makeup, hair and clothing in the 50's

Marilyn Monroe's photos of her various wardrobe in all her movies, edited into a video.

Classic Pin Up drawings edited into a video with music... this is the stuff that excited grandpa!

More classic pinups with matching music....hey, I like pin-ups okay!?

Davy Crocket song by Fess Parker...it's so catchy, I warn you don't click!!!

one of the most recognized TV show theme songs ever...Happy Days!!!

list of top TV shows in the 50's

Top music singles of the fifties


Class of '54 letter cardigan







1950 Buick Roadmaster










1959 RCA














Creature From the Black Lagoon (1954)
















1950's telephone

James Dean














3-D movies












Marilyn.... God bless her

Saturday, March 15, 2008

Dimitri Bottier - Poetry In Motion

I Would Live in Your Love
by Sara Teasdale


I would live in your love as the sea_grasses live in the sea,

Borne up by each wave as it passes, drawn down by each wave that
recedes;

I would empty my soul (sole) of the dreams that have gathered in me,

I would beat with your heart as it beats, I would follow your soul (sole) as it leads.



Dimitri Gomez shoes, poetry in motion

6 shoes to make your entrance with

Gaziano Girling shoes

L.A. Fashion Week


L.A. Fashion Week is over.... thank God.

Stay tuned and I'll be wrapping up the best in menswear collections from L.A.
... trust me, it'll be a short post.

Funny Recent Ebay Finds.... again

I know everyone here has heard of chinchilla fur coats, but in case your wondering what kind of animal it is, it's just about the cutest rodent I have ever seen (sorry Bugs). Now, I'm no fanatical animal right activist, my views are pretty much -
yes to RATS,
yes to SNAILS,
absolutely NO to PUPPY DOG TAILS !
(I don't care what I'm made out of)

Chinchilla Coat
$9,999

But if you feel a need to keep your neck warm with a giant, furry turd, be my guest and click here for the ebay listing.










"Has anyone seen my mommy?"







...sorry cutie, but you might want to check my other ebay listings at the bottom of this post.


Yes...
Hell yes !













No...
Please God, no !


A jacket that only King Midas would envy.

Women look good in gold.
Men look like Elvis impersonators.











Interested?...save the karats (carrots) for the chinchillas your breeding in the basement till next winter.

click here for worst looks of the year...and it's only March!

click for more ebay finds

...and even more ebay finds!


Friday, March 14, 2008

John Varvatos - Spring 2008 Runway Photos

One further look into John Varvatos' Spring 2008 Collection will explain the designer's meteoric rise in the last 5 years. The esteemed designer, originally from Detroit, is revered for mingling contemorary American style and European savvy to his designs.





















His designs are the embodiment of serene sophistication, in other words one could look classic and stylish, but at the same time not be perceived as trying hard to, as if being cool just came naturally... and that's what John Varvatos emphasizes in his creations.













































































video
Cheap Trick, documented by David Clinch at the Santa Monica Pier for the John Varvatos Spring 2008 Campaign as well as Alice Cooper and Iggy Pop ( huge fans of JV).













































His success with bringing a luxurious yet humble look to the world earned him the CFDA’s Menswear Designer of the Year award in 2005.


















































In 2007 John Varvartos was named Designer Of The Year by GQ.








Varvatos has recently purchased the location that once housed CBGB, and would be opening a boutique there in the spring of 2008.



































































Never over-styled but always smart... I find near perfection in almost every piece in this collection, which is a favorite by so many men- especially those that seek a look that speaks indifferent attitude toward fashion but secretly yearn to have their style appreciated from afar.

johnvarvatos.com
If you favor this collection, look over Hermes Spring 2008.

Gaziano & Girling Shoes


Hilton by Gaziano Girling
Rosewood Calf

Tony Gaziano and Dean Girling have a full schedule for the month of April here in the United States.
Along with an introduction into their company and their craftsmanship ( for those of us less acquainted with their artistry ), I will also provide my fellow fashionistos and dandies with 3 reasons why I humbly proclaim April 2008: Gaziano Girling Appreciation Month.












Sinatra
Black calf Leather


Reason #1
RTW available in NYC this April

You'll be able to find their shoes in stock after the opening of the anticipated Leffot boutique in April 2008.

Leffot will be on 10 Christopher St. in the West Village (NYC), at the former Geppetto's Toy Box.

>>>>>>>
(sorry kids, but Daddy needs a new pair of G&Gs)


I for one, shall embrace the moment when their shoes will be within a stone's throw.
(Perhaps, a large stone, along with a big duffel bag and a get-away car.)
Their show room is on Saville Row, so before this developement, their stock could only be found in England, France, Germany and Japan retailers. A yankee would patiently have to wait for a stateside exhinition... which would bring me to my next reason.
















Westbury

Vintage Oak

Reason #2
Tony & Dean Spring Fever

Tony Gaziano and Dean Girling will be exhibiting in San Franciso, Los Angeles, DC, and New York throughout the month of April. You could make an appoint- ment to partake in his latest creations. Click the website link lower down in the post for further info.

Astaire
Suede & Pin Grain




If you haven't already, it might be time you go bespoke in terms of footwear. Your suit is custom for only you, now begin to shift your gaze downward.





Windsor

Vintage Cedar






If there is any part of the body we regularly clothe that demands a proper fit, it's your feet.
Next time your out, pay attention to how many people you come across that look at your feet compared to your own eyes.







Cannes
Brown Highland Grain




A custom fit along, your style selection as well as the skin of choice not only provides comfort but it demands respect.



Corniche
Rosewood Calf





You can expect to pay about $1000-$1300 for Stock and Made-To-Order shoes.

The price range for
Bespoke shoes and boots is about $3,000 - $5000, and about $1500 more for alligator skin.


Reason #3
Their shoes.

Monaco

Vintage Pine


Carnegie
Bordeux Calf



gazianogirling.com


click here for my previous post on shoes

click here for my previous post on Andrew Ramroop, Maurice Sedwell's Saville Row tailor


The following images are GG bespoke shoes for lucky clients, remember you may click any of my photos for a detailed version.



























Thursday, March 13, 2008

CFDA Nominees for Men's Fashion

(Award nominees for Menswear Designer of the Year (from left): Tom Ford, Thom Browne, and Michael Bastian.)


The CFDA has announced it's nominees for it's annual fashion award ceremony.

(The CFDA is the mafia of American fashion designers, 300 + fashionisto capos, marching in unison (in the most beautiful boots you've ever seen) "to raise its artistic and professional standards; to define a code of ethical practices of mutual benefit in public and trade relations; and, to promote appreciation of the fashion arts through leadership in quality and aesthetic discernment." ... a tear runs down my Armani suit every time I read that message. It makes me want to save an African baby seal from deforestation.

Here are the men's categories and nominations.

Menswear Designer of the Year:

Tom Ford
Thom Browne
Michael Bastian
(click the nominees to see what makes them special)


Swarovski Award for Menswear:
same nominee requirement as above

Patrik Ervell
Tim Hamilton
Scott Sternberg for Band of Outsiders






Patrik Evrell backstage.

























Tim Hamilton
Fall 2008














Band of Outsiders
Spring 2008




















Michael Bastian
Spring 2008


















Thom Browne
Spring 2008



















Thom Browne
Spring 2008



















Patrik Ervell
Fall 2008






















Thom Browne
Fall 2008
















Tim Hamilton, Resort 2008




Tom Ford Loafers

Wednesday, March 12, 2008

Hermes - Spring 2008 Runway Photos

I thought I would share with you a little history of this fashion house. Founded in 1836 by Thierry Hermès as a saddlery company, the business has remained mostly in the control of the Hermès family for almost two hundred years. Today, the house of Hermès produces ready-to-wear fashion, home decor, jewelry, luggage , and fragrances as well as saddles.

















































Emile-Maurice Hermès, Thierry's successor, shifted the focus of the company at the turn of the 20th century away from the horse and towards plane, car, and train travel. Hermès manufactured trunks, bags, and overnight cases from its signature saddle leather. Emile also purchased the building at Rue Faubourg St.-Honoré 24 in Paris, which still houses the flagship store as well as workshops.











































One of Hermès' most recognized products is the silk scarf. The first silk scarf square in the Hermès collection was produced in 1928, and in 1937 a dedicated scarf factory was established in Lyon. The modern Hermès scarf measures 90cm square, weighs 65 grams and is woven from the silk of 250 mulberry moth cocoons. The per-pound cost of a scarf today is approximately $1,965.00 (compared to a pound of steel at $0.19)















































Robert Dumas, the husband of one of Emile's four daughters, introduced Hermès ties, fragrances, and beach towels. His son, Jean-Louis.






























































































































Forbes article on Veronique Nichanian, designer for Hermes



more on Hermès



hermes.com


History & Definition of Men's Hats - The Fedora

The fedora is a soft felt hat that is creased lengthwise down the crown and pinched in the front on both sides. Similar hats with a C-crown (an indentation for the head in the top of the crown) are occasionally called fedoras.

The term fedora was in use as early as 1891, it comes comes from an 1882 play by Victorien Sardou. Princess Fédora, the heroine of the play, wore a hat similar to a fedora.

Since the early twentieth century fedoras were considered an essential part of the suit and of business and formal attire. Most men did not go outside without wearing one.

In Hollywood of the 1940s, characters often wore a fedora, particularly when playing private detectives, gangsters, or other "tough guy" roles. The fedora is closely associated with many Hollywood characters.

Variations
  • In the U.K. a fedora is also called a trilby. They typically have a shorter brim and the back of the brim is distinctively more sharply upturned as a result.
  • The Porkpie is also a variant on the fedora.







Here are fedoras I've found online, certain variations of fedoras are very similar to trilbies or porkpies.













Woven Straw Fedora Hat by Paul Smith
woven straw, available in sky blue, made in Italy
$100
paulsmith.com







Bailey's "Madison" Navy Fedora
Fur felt, leather band
$84
getahaton.com






Bailey's Tino Fedora
Wool felt (black, burgundy, gray, moss)
$44
getahaton.com








Goorin Bros Boots Fedora
$34
villagehatshop.com







Bailey Gentry Fedora
fur felt, available in 3 colors
$150
villagehatshop.com







Bailey Gillespie Panama Fedora
hand woven $68
villagehatshop.com














Christys' Foldaway Fedora
light fur felt
$188
villagehats.com















Bailey Ultralite Packer Fedora
wool felt is water resisitant, hat foldable & packable
$48
villagehats.com





Cassel Goorin Lexa Fedora
cotton & linen, satin lining
$62
villagehatshop.com






Cassel Goorin Granados Fedora
cotton & linen, floral embroidery
$57
villagehatshop.com





Biltmore Polar Fedora
wool felt, suede finish, available in 7 colors
$175
menhats.com













"Roadmaster" Fedora by Scala
fur felt, crushable
$55
menshats.com














The Dobbs Waverly Fedora
also available in black
$125
menhats.com










Bailey Alton
reeded leather band, available in 4 colors
$120
menshats.com














Stetson Andes

waterproof, available in 3 colors
$45
menhats.com




"Willis" Fedora by Bailey
100% Wool Lite Felt, Teflon treated for durability (available in black)
$45
hats.com







Tango Fedora by Bailey
100% wool felt (red, black, brown, navy)
$52
hats.com







Lamont by Bailey Straw Fedora
Bao straw ( available in 9 colors)
$52
hats.com






Sorenson by Bailey
Straw Fedora
Panama straw, leather band
$78
hats.com





Dobbs Toledo Hat
$75
getahaton.com










History & Definition of Men's Hats - The Trilby

History of Men's Fashion










Recent Ebay Finds- Men's Fur Coats


Seriously guys, your all too old to be playing dress-up, put your mommies' coats back in the closet. Fur looks ridiculous on men, add a free promo cap given to you at an Auto Show and some sunglasses and you look like Bruce Willis being eaten by a giant vagina.

Men with fur coats should have their own forum where they can exchange grooming tips and share photos of their pinkie rings and Eastern European coke whores.

click here for Ebay listing


Great, another one...

"Oye, hermano, this fur coat has lasted me through 3 turf wars!"

"This is 100% Mexican chinchilla!"









"Look! No bullet holes in the back, ese!"

If you might be even slightly interested in this coat, when your done removing the balloons full of heroin out of your cousins butt, take a look at the ebay listing here









Oh, dear God, this is classic... click the photo for a better look, especially the bottom of the photo.
... sandals! You got to be kidding me!


click here if you want to look like a f*cking Tickle Me Elmo doll...









...more posts on ebay finds

Tuesday, March 11, 2008

History & Definition of Men's Hats - The Trilby Hat

The trilby hat (or simply trilby) is traditionally a soft felt men's hat with a narrow brim and a deeply indented crown, origibally made from rabbit hair felt, it is now made by many materials.

Trilbies are softer than Homburgs, and have a flexible brim instead of a curved one. They are like Fedoras in many ways, but with a narrower brim. The hat's name derives from a play based on George du Maurier's 1894 novel Trilby. A hat of this style was worn on stage during the play's first London production. The trilby has been a symbol of chic elegance and class, and has been associated with jazz, ska and soul music.

British journalist William Norman Ewer had the nickname Trilby because he was known to wear the hat. The trilby was also often worn by Inspector Clouseau, the character portrayed by Peter Sellers in the Pink Panther film series. According to Sellers, he already owned a trenchcoat when he created the character, and he bought Clouseau's trilby from a shop in London because he thought the hat just naturally completed the outfit.

Below are an assortment of trilby hats available online.


Hessian Trilby by Paul Smith
cotton & nylon, made in Italy, available in brown
$225
paulsmith.com











Woven Straw Trilby Hat by Paul Smith
woven straw, available in sky blue, made in Italy
$100
paulsmith.com




















Cassel Goorin Monk Trilby
wool blend
$56
villagehatshop.com







Cassel Goorin Lexa Fedora
cotton & linen, satin lining
$62
villagehatshop.com
(I don't care what Cassel Goorin says, this is a trilby)









Cassel Goorin Granados Fedora
cotton & linen, floral embroidery
$57
villagehatshop.com
(once again, this is more like a trilby)



Bailey Alton
reeded leather band, available in 4 colors
$120
menshats.com
(a slight deviation of a trilby)








Herringbone Gaffer by Kangol

100% wool
$55
menshats.com








Cotton Trilby by Kangol
weatherproof (2 styles)
$68
hats.com







Notable trilby wearers